Queenstown to Merivale (southland)


Gloating over a glass of wine as wind smashed around Queenstown turned into a bitter memory when the shuttle I'd booked to the Greenstone trailhead was cancelled. The Glenorchy road was closed while powerlines were restored, and it was early afternoon when I finally got walking. Five minutes along the easiest track on TA, the mess began.



All the way to Greenstone Hut I dodged trees and branches blown down the previous evening. Imagine how scared any hikers would've been. 

Next morning, early, I found 5 bucks grazing below the hut. Nice start to the day. 



I spent the day trekking to North Mavora Lake, with a passing glance up side valleys like this one. 



I reached Carey's Hut on the lake and decided it would be a good bolthole while a rain band due next day came past. 



Well, it didn't really rain and when twelve 4WD trucks came by for their lunch stop, I begged a ride along Mavora Lakes Road. It saved me about 25km of road walking, divine. 



And then, with 23km still in front of me, I stuck my thumb out and the only car on an empty gravel road, already packed to the gunnels, stopped and squeezed me in too. 



My saviours dropped me close to the track to Princhester Hut, and still it didn't rain.



Now I was in the Takitimu Mountains (there's a peak west of this scene named Clare) where the game of spot the next marker pole got intense in shoulder-high tussock.



In amongst the tussocks were deep narrow holes, just the size of a booted foot. I fell into two, easily a low score. And when you see this much orange marking, it means even the Government thinks you might never emerge from in there. 



I knew I was closing on Aparima Hut when I came to a river, 



which was good timing because, finally, the rain came. And came. Next morning I was grateful for a bridge. 



From here it took me a day to reach Telford campsite, on the north border of Mt Linton station. There was good climb in some nice beech forest, 



and a rocky ridge to negotiate before descending to the campsite. 



I could see the southern ocean and get a couple of texts out to the world. 

The rule is, no stopping at Mt Linton. Start early, walk fast, and be off their land by dark. So I did. 



Long, hot slog. Then over the road to a cabin on Birchwood Station, where the hosts offer $5 beers and even, a ride to Nightcaps to resupply (pig hunting club meeting!). Unexpected and wonderful and what a contrast with the neighbours. 

This time I bought sugary things to help my motivation along. I can feel very tired now, and let's hope the solution is a sugar boost. I waited at the pub with my groceries and discovered I was in a coal mining area. Is there no bottom to my ignorance? 



Violet in the morning today as I left to walk across Birchwood to Woodlaw Forest, 



then Island Bush Track, bringing me to the Tuatapere-Otautau road. 

Tonight I have a bunk in a wee cabin where a fawn is being bottle-fed. 



Tomorrow I go into Longwood Forest, that's two days, then a day to walk to Riverton, another to Invercargill and a final day to Bluff. That's fortunate because I am tired. I'm telling myself, a two day mudfest then beaches then road walking then peace. Hope it works. 

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