Pakiri to Kourawhero

The exit from Pakiri was, point south and walk uphill. For 2.5km I walked up and up in pasture, till finally there was bush. But such unloved muddy bush I decided I would only ever go there to hunt (pig sign all over) and even then I'd need to be hungry. Somebody else hated it too and tried to cheer up with the first "datafiti" I've seen.

And something did die - even Mt Tamahunga Track Of Despond has a trap line, hats off to the poor sod who baits it. 

On to Totara Track, cuckoos calling, and a nice crossing on Waiwhitu Stream before camping in a sunny spot uphill. 

Today, big expectations. Hike four hours and do coffee at Dome Cafe on SH1 and text my PLB contacts and see if I can score a real bed. 

Only, Dome Cafe is on the other side of The Dome! When I did get there I ate NZs best ever mince pie, bar none. Made on the premises. And staff offered to refill my water bottles. Why is this never nominated for honours? 

Set off again for Kourawhero through pine forest and a nice bit of bush with views east and west, hitting 500km in the process. So I photographed Deuter on a stump and kept going. 

I found a homestay on a goat farm, they wear bells tinkling now, and I have fresh goat cheese for dinner. Tomorrow Puhoi. Cheese! And time for tactical thinking about the route through Auckland and three days rain on the way.