Volcanoes and stars

After Kerikeri and before Kaitaia I spotted this volcanic plug in the distance. It is Taratara, I think. No better reminder that I'm right over the subduction plate now.

I saw a flight of ceramic birds overhead at the Kaitaia I-site. They had one of the maps I want for plotting a route round the closed kauri forests. I tried Hunting and Fishing for the other map. They don't sell maps. "What do hunters do?" "Navigate by the stars" apparently. 

Right now it's 100% cloud cover and raining. What stars?