Tekapo to Twizel

Over on the right through the window is the hydro canal. Te Araroa runs along this canal, for nearly 60km. No camping allowed. Too long to be walked in a day. Some people hire bikes, not realising the wind never comes from the north here. This people paid a pittance to come to Twizel from Tekapo by bus. It took 40 minutes. 

There was a grand view of Mt Cook en route. 

And then I was back in Twizel. I used to work from here every March and visit at least once again every year. 

The biggest change this time is that there's a tiny but perfect bookshop! 

Every book was buy-able. A real reader's bookshop. And I'm travelling light, quelle dommage. 

Jack's Hardware, High Country Hunting and Shawty's are just the same. Terrible muzak is still broadcast in the (tiny) town centre. I bet boletes are still growing on certain birch tree roots. People still drive trucks with periscope exhausts and the Four Square is comfortingly useful. The former Ministry of Works quarters are still an excellent backpacker's and there's a bar called Ministry of Works now.

What has changed is the caff on the corner. Once a greasy spoon, it now serves this. 

Maybe I should give an honest account of what I've eaten today? In Tekapo I had a capsicum omelette with baby spinach leaves, then a cinnamon brioche. Waiting for the bus I hoovered up a real fruit icecream. Here in Twizel there was the bowl of salad for afternoon tea, and later sticky dumplings with a beer followed by pork belly, roasted veges and a pinot noir. Plus I snacked on an apple, a peach and a bag of dried mango pieces. There's no easy way to find out how much my bodyweight has fallen, but the waist belt of my pack bites my pelvic bones now and I feel the pack frame on my lumbar spine. I think I'm missing some valuable padding in those places.

I have resupplied for six days plus of course emergencies. Sad to say, nobody here sells dried tomatoes. The pack feels deadly heavy. I walk to Lake Middleton tomorrow, then through to Ahuriri River, across and into Birchwood and finally out to Lake Hawea. One section has a very bad reputation. Three different NOBO hikers, all grown men, warned me not to walk from Top Timaru Hut to Stody's in rain. I can't find a way to avoid that section though it most likely won't be rainy when I do it. I just hope that's the last awful piece of the TA puzzle.

Next post maybe 18 January?