Two Thumb Range to Tekapo

From the north bank of the Rangitata River I shuttled to a farmstay at Mt Peel for the night. My hosts had a wonderful garden, I didn't want to leave. 

However, the shuttle man was back early and took me out to Forest Creek at the base of the Two Thumb Range. The official trail starts at Bush Stream, about 10km further west. However I was trading technical (rock walls, which are for climbers) for steep (900m over 3km as it turned out!), and also wanted to walk by Samuel Butler's V hut site on Mesopotamia Station.

After a hug and a farewell gift of boiled eggs and salami from Wayne the shuttle man, I headed upstream. After 3 hours I found my side creek (actually I overshot it and only accidentally noticed it) and began the climb to Bullock Bow Saddle, 1650m.

Yes, 900m straight uphill. Safe and easy, just the worst bootcamp session you can imagine. 

Once over the top, all I could see was more hills. 

About two hours from there I rejoined the Trail and continued to Royal Hut. 

In the night a rain front passed over and I lay there thinking, if it's still raining in the morning I will take a zero day. 

In the morning I could see the tops from my bunk. It was going to be a perfect day to tackle Stag Saddle, highest point on Te Araroa. 

The route climbs westward towards the sunny tops you can see, then south, and took 2.5 hours. 

There was cellphone reception so I celebrated with a chat to NOH. And a selfie to prove I hauled myself 1925m for no good reason. 

Well, I admit the view was outrageous. 

The way down to Camp Hut took me through alpine seepages, busting with Gentianella corymbifera. 

Pretty enough but when I found this, I was suddenly the happiest hiker in the hills... 

These flowers stand about 3cm high and it wasn't till I was lying down to take the photo that I realised what was going on. 

I recognised the Drosera immediately, the russet "leaves" covered in hairs. It is a carnivorous sundew. Then it hit me, the gorgeous violet flower was probably a bladderwort. Another carnivorous plant. Heaven help little insects. And is it too late to become a plant ecologist? 

From tiny wonders to towering peaks, the walk from Camp Hut (no water, only midday, push on) offered marvels in every direction. 

The final 15km from roughly Roundhill skifield to Lilybank Road on the shore of Lake Tekapo nearly broke me. So hot. So far. So uncertain what do do when I got there. 

When I reached Boundary Stream I hovered, unsure where to camp. That indecision was why I happened to be standing there when a Nissan Terano screeched to a halt. "Like a lift to Tekapo?" Just typing this makes me a bit weepy. I'd walked 29km in searing heat, climbed Stag Saddle, and a perfect stranger was reaching out to help me. 

I cuddled his fox terrier, learned he is the only tradesman housepainter in the district (from Fairlie, 60km away) and believes TA is a great thing so likes to help. Lilybank Road gets little traffic so it was wonderful timing. 

I got a dorm bed in Tekapo last night and take a bus to Twizel this morning.